By Andrea Blum ( @myamericanpantry ), Montalvo Culinary Artist
Have you ever had a fresh anchovy? Most people only experience anchovies packed in oil and preserved with salt on a common Caesar salad. But this fish, this tiny, unassuming, guppy-like sea creature, is a love of mine—eaten fresh or preserved.
I first experienced the importance of the anchovy and its economic significance while living on the Amalfi Coast in Italy near the town of Cetara, which is the anchovy center of Italy. Cetara itself is as tiny as an anchovy and splashed with color. Each morning, the little row boats go out to sea to net a catch of their beloved alice (anchovy in Italian ). It was there I met Pasquale, the owner of Il Convento Restaurant and the person who showed me the anchovy way and how to eat them fresh. He also showed me how to preserve them packed in small wooden chestnut barrels or terracotta jars to make the town’s famed fish sauce, called colatura di alici , a true delicacy and a long-time tradition of the town, dating back to Roman times. Anchovies are fresh and abundant off the Northern California coast. “I usually don’t like anchovies, but I like these,” is the usual phrase I hear when serving anchovies at the LAP table. And I heard this time around from artist Cassils , who said exactly that.
So here is an inspiration from life on the Amalfi Coast: t he anchovies were served alongside a slow-roasted leg of lamb with Moroccan spices, herbed beans, homemade Harissa, and roasted spring greens. And don’t forget the toast on the side!